MeDotOrg wrote:There was a style of humor called Tom Swifties. They were double-entendres:
So what does this have to do with table saws?
"Be careful with that table saw", said Tom offhandedly. "I use my table saw to make table tops," said Tom counterproductively. "If you're using a table saw, make sure you have plenty of current," said Tom amply.
I said, “Be careful, Tom! You might cut something off!” Scowling in response, he gave me the finger.
honorentheos wrote:I'm not sure she'd be able to cut a 6" post with a 12" let alone a 10". Might want to check that.
ETA: I guess both can at the 90 degree angle but the 10" wouldn't be able to cut an angle cut according to a woodworking page I googled into. So good to go.
You dlb cut, that is why you always want to get a slider, old school straight miters are really worthless compared to the sliders. Back in the day we use to cut half of the cowling guard in order to cut larger materials with the straight miter in that radial arm saw were too large to haul around.
A 12" saw is better, I own a few, but 10" is fine for the average home owner...as far as cutting 6" material get 12" but it's tricky to start it with most gaurds, a skill saw with a hand saw is better.
Don't take life so seriously in that " sooner or later we are just old men in funny clothes" "Tom 'T-Bone' Wolk"
honorentheos wrote:I'm not sure she'd be able to cut a 6" post with a 12" let alone a 10". Might want to check that.
ETA: I guess both can at the 90 degree angle but the 10" wouldn't be able to cut an angle cut according to a woodworking page I googled into. So good to go.
You dlb cut, that is why you always want to get a slider, old school straight miters are really worthless compared to the sliders. Back in the day we use to cut half of the cowling guard in order to cut larger materials with the straight miter in that radial arm saw were too large to haul around.
A 12" saw is better, I own a few, but 10" is fine for the average home owner...as far as cutting 6" material get 12" but it's tricky to start it with most gaurds, a skill saw with a hand saw is better.
Totally hear you on that. I own a basic Home Depot/Lowes purchased Dewalt 12" miter saw with the slider arm that I use for home improvement work only, but I can't say I've ever needed to cut something that didn't have a 4" nom. side to it. Even then, I have to pull the guard up a bit just for 3-1/2 material or it won't slide over the wood on it's own.
The world is always full of the sound of waves..but who knows the heart of the sea, a hundred feet down? Who knows it's depth? ~ Eiji Yoshikawa
Jersey Girl...go to 6:30 and you will see why one respects tools, especially a table saw. I have been hit twice with kick back (blunt end to the belly)...ignoring the 7 o'clock rule (working at 7 o'clock from blade), it hurts.
Markk wrote:Jersey Girl...go to 6:30 and you will see why one respects tools, especially a table saw. I have been hit twice with kick back (blunt end to the belly)...ignoring the 7 o'clock rule (working at 7 o'clock from blade), it hurts.
I don't think we need to worry about table saw kick back. I thought we decided that I need a chop saw?
Now the guys have taken up comparing blade sizes.
So typical.
I'll hang back until they're done and then maybe we can figure what size blade I need to cut through the fence posts.
I don't want to have to rely on this guy to do cuts for me. He's very nice to do it, but I hate waiting on someone else when I'm ready to go on something.
Failure is not falling down but refusing to get up.
Chinese Proverb
Well, I'm not a pro like many who posted. So my tools often come from Lowe's or Home Depot, occasionally Rockler. But my personal experience: I've owned this miter saw for 8 years having built everything from a covered decoratively framed back patio, rearranged interior walls, some custom cabinets and built ins, and have a neighbor who borrows it semi regularly as well. And it's done a very good job, and is going strong knock on wood.
